Thank you for alerting Wine Spectator to your article about wine in restaurants, which I found thoughtful and interesting. Let me offer a few responses.

First, you may be right that a sizeable segment of restaurant patrons can be relatively simply satisfied, especially if the server is a good communicator and knowledgeable about the wine list. I myself can generally find something satisfying to drink on a short list, if the wine buyer is skillful. But I think your assertion that 15 selections is sufficient is ill-founded, underestimating both the diversity of the wine world and the sophistication of an important class of restaurant diners.

Second, Wine Spectator does not require a certain number of selections for any of our wine list award levels. But it turns out that to meet our actual requirements, which are spelled out in our descriptions of the awards, most restaurants need a certain breadth and depth. We don’t argue that every restaurant should aim for a Grand Award (just as every museum doesn’t aim to be the Metropolitan or the Louvre). I seek out Award of Excellence winners for everyday dinners, knowing there will be a fine basic list and, most likely, equal attention to food and service. But there should be some recognition for those restaurateurs who have the passion and commit the resources to build truly encyclopedic wine cellars. Where else can most wine lovers ever hope to find and taste a special, rare bottle, when the time comes to celebrate?

All the best,

Thomas Matthews
Executive editor